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ShelfLevelTimeHookYarn
Odds and endsIntermediate6-8 hours4 mmFingering

Flat slip stitch socks with a knitted look

How do you crochet socks that look knitted? Work flat slip stitch rows in BLO, then turn a short row heel.

Flat slip stitch socks with a knitted look
Fig. 1 · Flat slip stitch socks with a knitted look

01 · The pieceWhat Flat slip stitch socks with a knitted look actually is

The sock starts as a chain of 106 worked over contrasting thread, a provisional edge you will reopen later. Main yarn joins and the cuff builds flat, 106 slip stitches in BLO row after row, ten rows deep, before the piece narrows to 104 and a marker sets the heel at the 62nd stitch from the toe end. Short rows turn the heel in paired decreases from 20 down to 2, rejoined through the side-bar, then the leg resumes at 26 stitches to the cuff edge before the whole foot closes at 82 stitches, 2 left unworked at the toe.

The marker at stitch 62 and the leave-2-unworked turns at each row end are the tolerances that matter — miscount either and the heel pocket sits off-center or the toe closes lopsided. The ten straight rows of the cuff and the long BLO runs down the foot are far more forgiving: the ridge structure of back-loop slip stitch disguises minor tension drift, so an occasional loose or tight stitch in those stretches will not show once the fabric is blocked flat.

Customize your size and color to make each pair uniquely yours — the pattern as written fits size 36, with a note to adjust the starting chain length and heel placement for other sizes.

Flat slip stitch socks with a knitted look — photo 2
Flat slip stitch socks with a knitted look — photo 3
Flat slip stitch socks with a knitted look — photo 4

02 · The count run26 rounds across 10 parts, each with its count

US terms throughout. Every row below ends with the count that round finishes on.

Parts manifest · 10 pieces to make before anything is sewn
PartQtyFinishes on
Foundation and Cuff1-
First Toe Shaping Section1-
First Heel Gusset1-
Transition Rows and Toe Shaping1-
Continue short rows1-
Second Toe Shaping Section1-
Middle Full Rows1-
Third Toe Shaping Section1-
Second Heel Gusset1-
Final Full Rows and Seaming1-

All stitches are worked in slip stitch in the back loop only (BLO). Pattern fits size 36; adjust chain and heel placement for other sizes.

Foundation and Cuff
RoundInstructionCount
Foundation chainChain 106 using contrasting thread.-
Back bump rowJoin main yarn. Ch 1, turn, and work 106 slip stitches in the back bump.-
10 rows, 106 stCh 1, turn, and work 106 slip stitches in BLO for 10 more rows.-
First Toe Shaping Section
RoundInstructionCount
104 st rowCh 1, turn. Work 104 slip stitches in BLO, leaving 2 stitches unworked at the end.-

Place a marker on the 62nd stitch from the toe end.

First Heel Gusset
RoundInstructionCount
60 st rowCh 1, turn, and work 60 slip stitches in BLO to the stitch before the marker.-
Edge join rowWork 2 slip stitches into the vertical edge to join.-
Heel short rowsWork short rows, decreasing by 2 stitches each pair (20, 18, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2).-
Heel join + 26 stAfter the final pair, join with 1 slip stitch into the side-bar and work 26 slip stitches across to the cuff edge.-
Transition Rows and Toe Shaping
RoundInstructionCount
Transition rowCh 1, turn. Work slip stitches in BLO, joining over heel steps. Leave 2 stitches unworked at the toe end (82 total).-
84 st rowCh 1, turn, and work 84 slip stitches in BLO.-
Continue short rows
RoundInstructionCount
Row 1680 sl st, leave 2 unworked.-
Row 1780 sl st.-
Row 1878 sl st, leave 2 unworked.-
Row 1978 sl st.-
Second Toe Shaping Section
RoundInstructionCount
2 rows, 78 stWork 2 rows of 78 sl st.-
Increase rowsIncrease gradually: 80, 82, 84, 86 sl st across the next rows, joining over each step.-
2 rows, 86 stWork 2 full rows of 86 sl st.-
Middle Full Rows
RoundInstructionCount
18 rows, 86 stWork 18 rows (10 pairs) of 86 slip stitches in BLO.-
Third Toe Shaping Section
RoundInstructionCount
8 decrease rowsWork 8 rows of decreasing short rows (similar to first toe shaping).-
6 increase rowsThen work 6 rows of increasing short rows (mirroring previous increases).-
Second Heel Gusset
RoundInstructionCount
26 st rowWork 26 slip stitches in BLO.-
Heel short rowsBegin short rows, increasing from 2 to 20 stitches.-
Heel join rowAfter final pair, join over the step and work 60 slip stitches to edge.-
104 st rowCh 1, turn. Work 60 sl st to heel peak, 20 along the gusset edge, then 24 to end (104 total).-
Final Full Rows and Seaming
RoundInstructionCount
106 st rowCh 1, turn. Work 106 slip stitches in BLO across the row.-
8 rows, 106 stWork 8 more rows of 106 sl st in BLO.Cut yarn, unravel last row, and use the long tail to seam invisibly using a mattress or precision stitch.-

Techniques on this build

Slip stitch in the back loop only (BLO)
Worked in every row from the cuff through the toe; consistent loop selection is what produces the knit-like ridge, so check the loop before each insertion.
Working into the back bump of a foundation chain
The first row after joining main yarn goes into the back bump of the 106-chain; an inaccurate count here throws off every row that follows.
Short row heel turn
The paired decrease sequence (20 through 2) shapes the heel; turn precisely at each pair or the heel cup will not sit square.
Joining through the vertical edge and side-bar
Used to close the heel pocket and rejoin to the leg; work into the edge itself, not a loop of the previous row, or a gap opens at the join.

Final fit-up

  1. Cut yarn, unravel the last row, and use the long tail to seam the long vertical edges together with a mattress or precision stitch, closing the leg and foot into a tube.
  2. Remove the contrasting foundation thread.
  3. Weave in all ends, including the main yarn tail at the join.
  4. Sew the toe closed by whipstitching both edges together and pull tight to shape the toe.

How the parts fit

  • The heel turn concentrates all its shaping in the short-row pairs (20, 18, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2), so the heel cup forms from a single tapering wedge rather than a separately worked flap.
  • Rows 16 through 19 alternate a decrease row (leaving 2 stitches unworked) with a full row worked straight across — the toe closes in stages rather than every row, which is why the count drops from 80 to 78 only every second row.
  • The foundation chain is worked over contrasting thread so it can be removed later, letting the toe close by joining live stitches instead of seaming through a cast-on edge.

Scaling the build

LargerGo up a hook size; at a looser gauge than 32-33 stitches per 10 cm the same stitch counts produce a bigger sock.
SmallerDrop to a finer sock yarn and a smaller hook to tighten the gauge above 32-33 stitches per 10 cm, shrinking the finished piece without changing any count.
Longer legAdd extra straight rows to the ten-row cuff section before the heel marker is placed, lengthening the leg above the heel.

03 · Snag listWhat went wrong on the bench, and the fix

Snag 1

Catching the front loop instead of back

Check which loop sits toward you before each insertion; a single front-loop stitch breaks the ridge line and is easy to spot on the next row.

Snag 2

Miscounting to the 62nd stitch marker

Count from the toe end with the piece flat and place a locking marker rather than counting by eye mid-row.

Snag 3

Working the last 2 stitches instead of leaving them

Treat the 'leave 2 unworked' instruction as a hard stop; these unworked stitches are what shape the toe and heel edges.

Snag 4

Joining side-bar stitches into a loop instead of the edge

Insert the hook into the vertical edge itself at the join rows, not into a stitch loop, to keep the seam gap-free.

04 · QueriesQuestions logged against this build

Q1

Why is this sock worked flat instead of in the round?

Working flat lets every row go into the back loop only, which is what produces the knit-stitch look. In continuous rounds the BLO ridge would twist and the pattern would lose its straight vertical lines.

Q2

What is the contrasting thread at the start for?

It forms a provisional foundation chain that gets removed later. Once undone, the live stitches are joined directly to close the toe instead of seaming through a cast-on edge.

Q3

How is this pattern adjusted for a different foot size?

The note in the pattern points to changing the starting chain length and shifting where the heel marker and short rows fall. This pattern as written fits size 36, so any resize starts with those two reference points.

05 · Made byWho counted this one

Odile Ferreira

Maker at the bench

Who writes Amigurumi Addict, how a build gets its number, and why every round on the site carries a stitch count.

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