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ShelfLevelTimeYarn
Odds and endsIntermediate4-6 hoursWorsted

Crochet 3D flower bag pattern with raised petals

How do you crochet a 3D flower bag? Work dc rounds with petal clusters, join, then edge to finish.

Crochet 3D flower bag pattern with raised petals
Fig. 1 · Crochet 3D flower bag pattern with raised petals

01 · The pieceWhat Crochet 3D flower bag pattern with raised petals actually is

The bag body works in the round, joined with a slip stitch to close each round, built from a base round through alternating plain double crochet rounds and flower rounds. Each flower round carries nine 5-petal clusters, attached directly into an increase stitch and closed with a slip stitch to hold its curve, while the final single crochet round tightens the rim. Nothing is glued or wired in; the flower shape holds entirely on chain-2 spaces and stitch tension.

Petal chains want consistent tension across all 5 loops of each flower — uneven ones flatten one edge of the bloom and it shows immediately against the neighboring flat rounds. The plain double crochet rounds are more forgiving: a stitch off by one here barely registers once the next flower round redistributes the count. Where it matters most is Round 2's back-loop-only row, since a missed loop there kills the ridge line the whole body reads off of.

The pattern is designed to be beginner-friendly but still offers an engaging challenge, with plenty of customization options — experiment with different yarn colors and textures to make the bag your own.

Crochet 3D flower bag pattern with raised petals — photo 2
Crochet 3D flower bag pattern with raised petals — photo 3

02 · The count run7 rounds across 1 part, each with its count

US terms throughout. Every row below ends with the count that round finishes on.

Parts manifest · 1 piece to make
PartQtyFinishes on
Main Pattern1-
Main Pattern
RoundInstructionCount
Round 1Create a slip knot. Chain 36 stitches. Double crochet in the third chain from the hook, then double crochet in the next 33 chains. After 33 double crochets, work 3 double crochets in the last chain. Work 32 double crochets on the other side of the chain. After 32 double crochets, make 2 double crochets in the last chain. Slip stitch to join. You should have 70 stitches in total.-
Round 2Chain 2, work one double crochet in each stitch around (back loops only). Slip stitch to join.-
Round 3Chain 2, work 1 double crochet in the same stitch, then 1 double crochet in the next 5 stitches.-

Step by step: Work 2 double crochets in the next stitch (this starts the flower base). Flower Petal Sequence (Repeat 5 Times for One Flower): chain 2, make 2 double crochets, chain 2, slip stitch. After the first flower, work 6 double crochets, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, and repeat the flower petal sequence. Repeat Pattern for the Remaining Flowers: continue the pattern (6 double crochets, 1 flower) until all flowers are made.

Main Pattern
RoundInstructionCount
Round 4Chain 2, work 1 double crochet in each stitch around. Slip stitch to join.-
Round 5Chain 2, work 3 double crochets, then 1 flower, repeat (6 double crochets, 1 flower) 9 times, and end with 3 double crochets. Slip stitch to join.-
Rounds 6–14Repeat the established pattern (alternating flower rounds and plain double crochet rounds).-
Round 15Work one single crochet in each stitch around. Slip stitch to join, chain 1, cut yarn to finish.-

Techniques on this build

Back loop only (BLO)
Used in Round 2 to set the ridge that separates base from body; grabbing the full stitch instead of the back loop erases the line.
Flower petal sequence
Each flower is 5 repeats of chain 2, 2 double crochets, chain 2, slip stitch — worked flat off the main round, so loose, even tension keeps petals lofted rather than curled.
Increase to anchor a flower
A 2-double-crochet increase marks where each of the 9 flowers attaches per round; placing it a stitch early or late throws off the 6-dc spacing between blooms.
Slip stitch round join
Closes every round including each flower's petal loop; a join worked too tight twists the round, too loose leaves a visible gap at the seam.

Final fit-up

  1. Weave in the cast-on tail and every flower's finishing tail at the base of the petals, running the needle through the Round 2 back-loop ridge where possible.
  2. Steam or wet-block the flower rounds flat, pinning each 5-petal cluster open so the chain-2 spaces hold their shape instead of curling inward.
  3. Close the mouth of the bag by seating the final single crochet round snugly, then whip stitch the first and last stitch flush at the join.
  4. Attach a strap or handle of chosen length at two points on the top single crochet round, sewing through both loops for a seam that carries weight.

How the parts fit

  • Flower rounds space nine 5-petal clusters evenly by alternating 6 plain double crochets with 1 flower, and bookend the round with 3 double crochets so the repeat closes without a partial flower at the join.
  • Round 2's back-loop-only construction leaves the front loops free on the body's underside, creating a ridge that marks the base-to-body transition without affecting stitch count in later rounds.
  • Each flower is built as a 5-repeat petal sequence worked flat off a single increase stitch rather than in the round, which is what lets the petals stand proud instead of lying against the body surface.

Scaling the build

LargerMove to a bulkier yarn and a larger hook; the flower clusters and body proportions scale up together without altering the repeat structure.
SmallerMove to a finer yarn and a smaller hook; petals tighten and the finished bag scales down while keeping the same round-by-round shape.
Taller bodyRepeat the established alternating pattern — one plain double crochet round paired with one flower round — for extra cycles before the final single crochet round, adding height without changing the flower spacing already set per round.

03 · Snag listWhat went wrong on the bench, and the fix

Snag 1

Working Round 2 into both loops

Check for the free front loop remaining along the round before moving on — if it's gone, the back-loop ridge was missed and the round should be frogged back.

Snag 2

Losing count on the 9 flower repeats

Place a stitch marker at the start of each flower round and after every flower as it's completed, since a single skipped repeat throws off the 3-dc bookend at the round's end.

Snag 3

Petal chain spaces pulled too tight

Keep the chain-2 loops in the petal sequence loose enough to sit proud; if they lie flat, work the next flower's chains one size looser on the hook.

Snag 4

Twisted round from the slip stitch join

Confirm the slip stitch lands in the top of the first stitch of the round, not into the chain-2 turning space, before moving into the next round.

04 · QueriesQuestions logged against this build

Q1

Do the flowers need stuffing to stay raised?

No. The petals stay lofted through the chain-2 spaces and double crochet structure of the petal sequence alone, with no stuffing required. This keeps the finished bag light.

Q2

Can the flowers be a different color from the body?

Yes. Since each flower is a separate petal sequence attached at an increase stitch, the yarn can be changed right before starting a flower and again after its last slip stitch. This gives a contrast-flower look without altering the round structure.

Q3

Why does Round 3 start with an extra double crochet before the increase?

The same-stitch double crochet followed by 5 more stitches sets up the spacing so the first flower's increase lands in the correct position relative to the round's join. Skipping it shifts every flower in the round by one stitch.

05 · Made byWho counted this one

Odile Ferreira

Maker at the bench

Who writes Amigurumi Addict, how a build gets its number, and why every round on the site carries a stitch count.

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